Here’s some pointers for great winter planter boxes

Take a walk around yor yard and gather evergreen material, like juniper, cedar, cypress and soft pines for the bulk and the ‘skirt’. You’ll also need some fancy stuff to dress it up. We gathered dried hydrangea and sedum flowers to either use plain or made it pop with some red, gold or silver spray paint. Twigs from a red twig dogwood look great in the center of winter containers. I even fudged this by cutting some of the hardened trumpet vine and spraying it red (ive seen it sprayed white in the nurseries) And whats winter without berries? A trip to the dollar store filled that quota! PLUS we scored some white doves to tie to the dogwood branches, what a nice touch.

To make winter planter boxes, start with the tall pieces, like juniper. Place them in the center if you’re going to be working around the planter so it looks good from any angle. Place them in the back if you only want a front view. Then design the ‘skirt’, the plants that hang over the planter to cover the edges of the box. Cedar, cypress, soft pines work well here. Then fill in with your color to make it really pretty. Its as easy as that.

Watch this Video about Winter Planter Boxes

Did you know I started a plant nursery? This is Jon from the nursery last year, showing how he made the most beautiful winter container Ive ever seen!

Watch ‘Winter Planter Boxes’ on Youtube

Heres Jon making winter planters this year

The finished product

Some others

There’s still time to get your winter planter boxes finished before the holidays! If youve made your own winter planter box, Id LOVE to see it. Link us to pictures in the comments below!

Growing your own herbs in hydroponic gardens:

Water is used instead of soil in a hydroponic garden . This is not only healthier for the plant, it promotes a faster growth rate in the plant and provides a healthier produce of off spring from the plant due to the simple matter that harmful agents such as fertilizers are not used. Growing herbs in hydroponics is the perfect recipe for seasonal produce and a healthy, organic crop any time of the year.

The difficulty in growing herbs with hydroponics is as difficult or as simple as the grower is willing to make it. It can be as simple as growing a plant in a self watered bucket or can be an elaborate as the most sophisticated hydroponics system. The theory of hydroponic growing encompasses many growing methods. . Granted, those getting involved from the get go with a simple bucket definitely will likely be the ones that eventually set out for the most elaborate systems on the scene, as hydroponics growing is one of the most rewarding and one that the avid grower or the newcomer realizes. The fact that this form of growing is suited to any indoor environment makes this technique very versatile. Something that many home gardeners have recognized.  

Getting started growing herbs in hydroponics:

As mentioned earlier you can get started with as little as a bucket. However, most start with hydroponics systems include not only lights, ventilation systems, odor systems, H2O systems but a grow box. The grow box is simply a self contained environment for the plant life to nurture and grow. It is a self contained system. However, seeing as a hydroponic garden can be grown with as little as a self-watering bucket, this is not necessary.

Hydroponics grow boxes:

The most ideal environment for growing plants is a hydroponic grow box. Typically, they are self contained, but do not have to be. Grow boxes include the containers, H2O systems, the ventilation, the odor control and everything necessary for the hydroponics system. Grow boxes are great for hydroponics systems that are a bit more elaborate.  

Hydroponics makes cultivating your own herbs a simple process. In fact, it is a growing that many beginning in hydroponics start with.  And like most things in life, the more time you spend on learning and studying growing hydroponics, the greater success you are going to see.

They are able to be started by seeds or from cuttings from other trees which can be allowed to root. Seeds or clippings are obtainable at garden centres and are also readily obtainable for ordering over the web. The little trees could be purchased through a variety of suppliers as effectively. There are very precise instructions for germinating and starting timber from others, and it depends on the type of tree.

The Bonsai tree will will need a variety of pots throughout its lifetime. The container will need to be changed because it grows, but should really not be replaced unless vital. The sort and colour of pot is entirely up to the gardener, as personal preference will likely be a factor. Some many people think about their tree to have a sex, and will pick color based on this as nicely.

Whichever pot is chosen, it needs to have holes within the bottom which will permit for drainage. Bonsai roots will rot or grow fungus if they sit in water, and a pot that prevents this is mandatory for success. It’s also recommended that the tree be watered occasionally by setting it into a tray of water and allowing it to soak up by means of the holes. This ensures a thorough watering.

Pruning is one particular belonging to the most significant aspects of this appearance of this bonsai. One can find some quite unique tools which have been utilized to achieve this, and they will be obtainable wherever bonsai trees or seeds are discovered. There’s no reason to acquire too countless, as it really is critical to be familiar with what type will work best for totally different kinds of timber.

Most bonsai owners use distinctive sorts of bands and wires when cultivating their timber. These are usually used to restrict or encourage growth, depending on the tree and the preference within the owner.

Bonsai have quite specific watering requirements. They should never dry out totally, but over watering will be just as detrimental. Regular watering is an excellent thought, yet the will need for moisture can depend on the quantity of sunlight the tree receives, the depth of the pot, the top quality of this soil, and other factors. When kept out of doors, the plant need to be watered early inside the day. Washing the leaves can also support keep the tree healthy, and retain it looking its most beneficial, nonetheless, avoid doing this from the middle from the day.

Start off with a single bonsai, and discover to care for it correctly ahead of acquiring another. It is generally a incredibly addicting hobby, and a number of persons, once they get started, discover it tempting to get extra. They can be costly, and it truly is a fantastic plan to begin slowly and study correct methods ahead of having a lot of.

If you are curious about a <a href=’http://lonetreebonsai.com/default.htm’>bonsai</a>, then visit Gabriel Meriwether’s website and learn about the <a href=’http://lonetreebonsai.com/ficus.html’>ficus tree</a>.

If I haven’t told you that I have the most wonderful neighbors, Ive been keeping my mouth shut too long. The flowers in the photo below were given to me by one of my favorite neighbors, and what a splendid gift. Our late spring is giving my yard so little blooms. That will teach me to not rely solely upon annual seeds for summer flowers! She went through her yard and cut flowers from her summer flowering shrubs that she thought would look nice in a bouquet. Her main rule being that she stuck to 3′s. I have to say, it really worked.

This arrangement is as lively as a fireworks display. If you can see from the picture, there are 3 annabelle hydrangea blooms which make the bouquet quite outstanding in size alone! The enormous white fluffy clusters make a striking background for accompanying shouts of accent color…

3 bright red bee balm/monarda, 3 purple chive flowers/allium and the burgundy foliage from a ninebark/physocarpus are all the color this bouquet needs. But the most interesting flower in bloom was her Goosneck Loostrife. The dainty off white blooms form a pointed blossom which add flowing movement. This is a winning combination for one knockout arrangement.

With selection from the 30,000 species of orchids now identified and hybrids, which number in the 200,000 to 300,000 range, it should be easy to choose the perfect orchid to grow in your particular location.

Even with these facts, orchids are still believed to be difficult to grow. Many of them are indeed difficult but there are so many thousands of orchids, it is usually pretty easy to find one that will successfully grow inside or outside wherever you are located. If you are a beginner, you should start with a mature plant to grow your first orchid.

Growing orchids from seeds is almost impossible. They need sterile conditions and the presence of a special fungus, without which an orchid can never germinate. This is why even orchids send out thousands of seeds having only one or two successfully germinate. It is possible to propagate by division and this is an easier method. Just remember that it could take up to eight years before a plant started in this manner flowers.

Orchids don’t follow many general rules but this one applies to most orchids: Place your orchids, whether inside or outside, in a spot where they will get lots of light. Because light hours are so limited in the winter in colder climates, you will most likely want to install artificial lights to help them grow. Whether you use grow lights or other types of light will depend on the species of orchid you are growing. Check at purchase to see if it needs very high intensity lights or not.

Orchids are not one of those plants you can never water and ignore for months at a time. While they definitely don’t like to be over-watered, orchids do like a once-per-week watering. They should dry out between one watering and the next, but they should never be completely dry. Also, be careful about watering an orchid that was just replanted or has been disturbed in some way. Orchids are also not terribly fond of the dry air created in the winter by most of today’s furnaces. You will most likely need to get a humidifier. Most orchids love hot, humid weather and are not unhappy even with 70% to 80% humidity.

Orchids are fertilizer-lovers. They should be kept fertilized throughout the growing season and especially when they are flowering as most flower for an extended period of time. There is always controversy among gardeners about what fertilizer is best. Overall, liquid fertilizer is preferred. But you can go completely organic, such as with fish emulsions or fertilizer from worm castings. Or, you can use synthetic fertilizers such as 10-10-10, 30-10-10 or 10-10-30. Specific orchid fertilizers are also available.

As for the growing medium itself, everyone has their own favorite formula. It also depends on the type of orchid you are growing. You can use fir bark, coconut fiber, sphagnum moss, peat moss, roots of dried fern, cork, or lava rock, to name several. Some orchid plants are classified as terrestrials and can grow in soil, such as cymbidiums and paphiopedilums.

The easiest orchids for beginners are Cattleyas, Epidendrumns, Oncidiums, and Laelias. Be patient with whichever type of orchid you plant. Intime, your hard work will pay off with long-lasting, beautiful flowers.

First, you should replace the filtration on your mister system. If you have secondary filters, such as a polyphosphate filter for calcium in the water, replace it too. Tighten and examine the fittings to make sure they’re tight and secure.

Hook up the system, then test the pump (or water supply) to check that it’s working. Some water pumps require lubrication so inspect yours and oil it according to the pump’s instructions. Examine the electrical connectors to be sure they’re secure and inspect the wire’s insulation for cracks, repairing any that have worn out.

Now start the water and follow the length of the mister hoses, examining it it for leaking. If your misting system utilizes SS misting line, this shouldn’t be a problem. Simply check the joints and fittings for leaks. Tighten any fittings that may have come loose. If your system has plastic tubing, you’ll need to check the entire system for cracks and ruptures.

The next thing to do is to be certain the mist nozzles aren’t blocked. Mister nozzles that leak abundantly are most likely to have enlarged orifices and must be replaced. Clogged nozzles will have no water coming from them, or a little spray and perhaps some leaking.

Once you’ve turned off the pump, remove and replace the defective nozzles with new high-quality mist nozzles. Make sure the new ones have the same size orifice as the old ones. Unscrew the clogged nozzles and look for debris in the fixture and also in the base of the nozzle. If the passages are clear, then check the nozzle spray hole on the front of the nozzle. If you reside in a locale that has mineralized water, the mister nozzle could be blocked by calcium deposits. If there are mineral deposits on the face, gently scrape them off being careful not to damage the pinhole. It might be feasible to simply just clean the debris off the top of the nozzle. If it appears the orifice is internally clogged, it may be possible to clear the blockage by immersing the nozzles in lime removing solution overnight.

What most expert misting system vendors do is simply change out all the nozzles since it’s simpler and requires a lot less time than to attempt to clean out each mister nozzle, and the cost of mist nozzles is fairly reduced when you buy them in bulk.

When you purchase mister nozzles, be certain to use the correct thread size and spray size. Most mist nozzles aren’t stamped with this information, but with the best nozzles you can determine these details by the pattern of the knurls on the side of the nozzle and the o-ring color. For instance, Amfog mist nozzles have grooves or cross hatching on the side to indicate thread, and the o-rings are colored to determine the orifice size.

Once you’ve taken care of the maintenance on your mist system, it’s time to start enjoying a cooler summer!

These were an anonymous gift. I didnt do this crocus planting, they just ended up mysteriously in my garden. (I have great neighbors) And I gladly accept, because they’re such a joyful surprise. More of these might be a necessity soon, because they look so beautiful planted in clusters. And when they disappear you can overplant them with annuals.

Planting Crocus Flowers

Crocus flowers grow from corms and should be planted in the fall. They dont need much of anything, just some sun and a good cold, dormant period. They come up very early (its April 5th!) and will stay in bloom even if it snows again. They wont be here for long, but crocus flowers kick off the season just right

Cold frames dont need to be pretty, expensive or even sturdy for that matter. I started with no cold frame designs or plans,  just a stack of 12″ shelving salvaged from a closed down foot locker and a handful of screws that were already in my pocket! They should disassemble easily to clear them out when the weather gets nice.

How to Build A Cold Frame:

My cold frames were as simple as screwing 4 boards together to construct the frame. Cold frames need a cover, so you could use old windows or plastic. Here I just used boards.

These cold frames need only to be functional, serving a very simple purpose. Keeping wind out and warm air in on cold nights.

Yep, its just a box. Covered with boards and an old blanket to keep the heat in. In the next week, I’ll be experimenting to figure out the best way to keep the heat in so that my overcrowded plants can be transplanted into pots as soon as possible and have a cozy place to stay until the weather is warm enough.

I threw the $2 thermometer in there and will be checking often against the outside temperature to see what makes the biggest difference on these crisp spring nights.

UPDATE!

I have learned from trial and error, well many errors, that a coldframe with no buffer doesnt to much to retain heat. It worked well however to keep shield tender plants from wind and sunscald, which can be devastating to new plants trying to harden off. I did have to wait until the weather tamed to put all of the plants out. It was a safe bet when the overnight temperatures were consistently 45 degrees. And I built hoops with pvc and straps and used an old bedsheet from the resale shop. I like white bed sheets because they seem to let just the right amount of light in without having to shell out a lot of cash for shade cloth. I surely will be trying this again next year.

There are some things to keep in mind while you’re burning, some in partial jest, but I’ll tell you from experience, its no laughing matter…

1. Dont wear fleece! Though you may be used to cozying up for the cold in the warmest material one earth, dont wear your favorite fleece gear to a bonfire. Fleece may be warm but its definitely not flame retardant and its almost horrifying when your clothes practically melt in an instant.

2. Ladies, Wear Mascara! This is not an attempt at vanity, but to ensure protection… In the process of building my fires, I’ve singed my eyelashes TWICE this year already. If you like long luxurious eyelashes, take my word for it and slap on some mascara before you head out. Eyelashes take forEVER to grow back.

3. Since its so early in the season, unless you’ve tarped your wood last fall, most everything out there will be a variation of wet, to waterlogged. Scavenge to find the driest dead wood, twigs and sticks to get your fire started.

4. Kerosene, not gasoline. I sincerely do not like using any type of chemicals on a fire, but since its most likely to be pretty wet out there, it may be necessary to aid your fire starting efforts with a little kerosene. Kerosene burns longer than gasoline. Take caution as with any flammable liquid.

5. Get your fire good and hot with the dry stuff. When you have a lot of burning embers, you can then get away with burning wetter and fresher wood. If the fire is hot enough, it will dry the wood and eventually burn it. Hear it sizzle!

6. Wear Gloves! Heavy duty work gloves can really save you from the burn factor. Makes it easier to stick your hands right in there and move things around for better flameage.

7. Put it out right. Since its too early to drag out the hoses, we’ll let the fire burn itself out, so give yourself enough time. Wind down your fire by removing unburned wood and raking the coals to create an even surface. Structure the remaining wood back on top of the embers and watch the fire burn down to nothing. If you’ve built a safe fire pit, dug deeply and enclosed it in stones or fire bricks,let the embers burn themselves into a fine ash. If its windy, wait until its completely burnt out, or rake the embers into a small pile and cover them with the top of a large barbeque pit. MAKE SURE to check your city’s regulations on putting out your fire and general fire safety.

February and the promise of spring overexcites me, longing for an END to dreary winter. My mistake like many others is starting too many seeds too soon – creating a big mess and a lot of dead plants. But I’ve come to the conclusion that there are only 2 real questions to answer…

‘How’, and most importantly ‘When’?

The ‘How’ is easy. Set up a space with grow lights, fill seed flats with a nice soiless seed starter mixture and keep them moist. The seeds take care of the rest. I’ve already covered how in this post.  Steps of Seed Germination Part 1


The ‘When’ is trickier. I had wonderful success last year with vegetables, more vegetables than I knew what to do with, I couldnt give them away! Steps of Seed Germination Part 2 has to do with timing of vegetable seeds, so I created printable charts showing what temperature vegetable seeds and seedlings can withstand.


This year, Ive begun seed germination of annual and perennial flowers indoors and am trying to correct past mistakes…researching like a madwoman. Every plant germinates, grows and flowers at a different rate. Its important to get it right. Nurseries and commercial growers start seeds in the greenhouse in plug trays – flats with a lot of little tiny cells. Seeds germinate and the roots fill the little cells in anywhere from 4 to 6 weeks depending on the plant. Then they transplant the strongest seedlings into bigger cells or individual pots where they’re fed and another 4 to 6 weeks of growth is needed before blooms are expected.

But like I said, no two plants are the same and grow at different rates. I’ve been trying to build a chart for myself (zone 5) for days and have been searching plant by plant… until I came upon this spreadsheet. Add your last frost date and the spreadsheet will calculate all the dates and times you need to start and set out your plants.

An interesting event… The Lone Seedling. Not sure what this is about yet, but I’ll let you know what happens.

of almost 400 cells, one impatien seed sprouted. (plus a LITTLE one) its been that way for 2 days.

updates: March 29 – the other impatiens caught up!

Seedling progress of Geranium (left), Convulvulus (middle) and Impatiens Balsamina (right) started Feb 17, 2011

March 1

March 7

March 24 (impatiens dont grow this fast, do they!?)

March 29 Transplants – Impatiens Balsamina

March 29, remaining in tray (more breathing room, phew)

March 29 Marigold (started March 7)

March 29 Zinnia Elegans- Cherry Queen (started March 15)